iPhone X Restoration - More Than Board Swap


The phone has been severely damaged

The screen is shattered and the back glass is broken

The mid frame is deformed

Remove the display assembly

The Face ID parts and the rear camera look just fine

The motherboard also looks fine

The battery is severely deformed

Get a new display assembly installed

Connect the battery connector with the DC Power Supply

Power on

The phone turns on normally

The touch screen is unresponsive

Take out the motherboard

We can see there is an obvious gap between the third space PCB and the lower layer

And the lower layer is badly deformed

We need to swap the lower layer

Place the motherboard on the heating platform

Heat for several minutes and then remove the upper layer

Continue to attach the upper layer to the PCB Holder

Remove thermal compound covering CPU

Then heat with the Soldering Iron at 365℃

Clean bonding pads around the edge with Solder Wick

We can see that several pads have come off the board

Among these missing pads, S7, S8 S11 and S12 are important signal pins

We need to treat them by jumping wires

The rests are ground pins and test pins

we can just leave them alone

Apply paste flux to the four missing signal pins

Heat with the pointed-tip Soldering Iron

And solder 0.02 mm Enameled Copper Wire to the four missing pads respectively

Once done, cut off the excess wire with Sculpture Knife

Then loop the wire around the missing pad

Apply some UV Curable Solder Mask

Solidify under the UV Dryer Lamp for 5 minutes

Remember to scrape off excess UV Curable Solder Mask

Make sure the soldered wire is exposed

Attach a known good lower layer to the test fixture

Then the upper layer

Get the display assembly connected

Connect the battery connector with the DC Power Supply

Get the motherboard powered on with tweezers

The phone turns on normally

The touch function is also normal

Judging by this, the touch issue is caused by the lower layer

Since the lower layer is badly deformed

we need to transplant base band CPU, base band EEPROM and the NFC chip

on the original lower layer to a new lower layer

Attach the new lower layer to the PCB Holder

Heat with Hot Air Gun at 280℃ to remove black adhesive around base band CPU

Then heat with Hot Air Gun at 360℃

Detach base band CPU, base band EEPROM and the NFC chip from the new lower layer

Clean the three bonding pads afterwards

Continue to attach the original lower layer to the PCB Holder

Heat with Hot Air Gun to remove base band CPU, base band EEPROM and the NFC chip

Clean residual solder and black adhesive on base band CPU with Soldering Iron

Get base band CPU, base band EEPROM and the NFC chip recalled

Solder the NFC chip, base band EEPROM and base band CPU to the new lower layer

Attach the original upper layer and the new lower layer to the Test Fixture

Get the display assembly connected

Connect the battery connector with the DC Power Supply

Get the motherboard powered on with tweezers

Go to Settings>General>About

Here we can find IMEI serial number and modem firmware

Which indicates that the lower layer swap has been completed successfully

Next thing we do is to solder the two layers together

Attach the new lower layer to the specialized recalling mold

Cover the new lower layer with the matched rebelling stencil

Smear some low-temp Solder Paste on the stencil

Once done, remove the recalling stencil carefully

Continue to place the new lower layer onto the heating platform

With solder paste melting, solder balls start to shape up

Once completed, wait for the lower layer to cool for 10 minutes

Continue to apply BGA Paste Flux to the third space PCB

Get the upper layer in position

Heat for 1 minute on the heating platform at 160℃

With the upper layer sinking and Paste Flux flowing

the two layers have been soldered together successfully

Power off the heating platform

Wait for the double-stacked motherboard to cool for 5 minutes

Get a new back glass assembly

Get the original Face ID parts and rear camera installed

Then get the motherboard installed and flex cables connected

Get a new battery installed

Then get the original earpiece speaker and sensor assembly installed onto the new screen

Connect the original screen with the display extended module

Read data of the original screen with the True Tone repair programmer

Once done, connect the new screen with the display extended module

Write stored data of the original screen to the new screen

Get the new screen connected

Press the power button to turn on the phone

Run function test. All going well

However, the Wi-Fi switch cannot be toggled

We need to unbind Wi-Fi

Connect the iRepair DFU Box to the computer

Then connect the phone with prepare DFU Box

Put the phone into DFU mode

Open the software

Click ‘DFU Model’

Then click ‘Query Info’

Click ‘Unlock Wi-Fi’ to have the Wi-Fi unbound

Once finished, click ‘Exit diagnosis’

Disconnect the phone

The phone turns on automatically

The Wi-Fi switch is back to normal

iPhone X restoration has been completed successfully

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